Podcast: Play in new window | Download (Duration: 31:50 — 14.6MB) | Embed
Prema Kerollis, co-founder and general manager of Three Sticks Wines, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. This is her first time on California Wine Country, although others from Three Sticks have been on before, including this episode on Oct. 13, 2021. Prema has worked alongside Three Sticks founder Bill Price, since they founded the winery in 2002. They produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Gap’s Crown vineyard in the Petaluma Gap. Dan calls the vineyard site “spectacular” and “really gorgeous.”
They start with the 2024 Gap’s Crown Chardonnay. The place is famous for Pinot Noir. When they got the vineyard, there was a block of Dijon clone Chardonnay that thrives in the Petaluma Gap. It produced this wine which is only slightly sparkling.
The Wind in the Petaluma Gap
Dan explains that grapes don’t want to be producing lots of leaves, which happens in fertile soil. In less fertile soil, you get a better balance of fruit and concentration, not too much of either. Gap’s Crown delivers this because if its position and climate “This vineyard is easy to farm… as long as you are there every day of the year.”
The Dijon clone, aka the Wente clone, is lighter, which they carry through in the winemaking. It is aged on the lees slowly. There is a balance of steel and oak. Dan suggests this wine is made well enough that it will age very well. If you leave it for 4 years it will take on characteristics that you would not imagine possible from Chardonnay. These wines could support 10 years or more.
Next there are two Pinot Noirs from 2023, Gap’s Crown Vineyard and Gap’s Pinnacle. Dan explains how the wind shuts down the stomates on the underside of the leaves. When the wind comes, the stomates close to protect the vine from losing moisture. That shuts down photosynthesis as the vines are protecting themselves. This way, the grapes develop later, which allows more fruit flavors to develop. 2023 was an easy year, without great heat. 2010, 2011, 2023 and 2025 are the classic cool vintages here. Dan has a lot of old Pinot Noir. Some of it is 20 years old and can last still longer. Magnum bottles are best for long aging, provided that the cork is good.