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Dan and Kevin
Kevin Bersofsky, owner of Montagne Russe wines, is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode in 2024.
Kevin has brought a French style sparkling Rosé. Dan likes this sparkling Rosé because it is dry. This is a 2022, 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chard, Keller estate Petaluma Gap fruit. Kevin is very light with the dosage, 2.5 grams, here. It’s like lemons and lemonade. A little sugar makes it drinkable.
2022 was a hot year, but Kevin says there are wines before the heat, and after the heat, a tale of two completely different vintages. This was picked before the heat.
Kevin calls the Petaluma Gap a sort of mini-San Francisco. At about five o’clock, a coastal breeze comes in. The effects are well known. First, the wind slows the maturation of the grape. Also, the wind stops the photosynthesis of the leaves. This favors thicker skins and color. It also keeps the acid levels up.
California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!
Kevin says he waits for acidity to come down before sugars get too high. In other places, you reach sugar maturity and acid maturity at the same time. Kevin picks on 3 criteria. Flavor is first. He can taste and predict Brix. When he tastes something, he knows. He has a flavor catalog in mind. For example, the Roberts Road vineyard, he has flavor criteria, and he knows what he wants. Dan says California can have fruit, acid and body without having to sacrifice one.
Greg Jones is a meteorologist and Oregon farmer, who runs a weather forecast site. Visit the Abacela winery website.
Too much oak.
Chardonnay in California usually has too much oak. Kevin’s Montagne Russe Chardonnay is different. It has a bit of lemon oil and tropical fruit. But the acid is holding everything together. 2023 was a cold year. He did half ML on this wine. They use Puncheon barrels, which are 2.2 times larger than regular barrels. That puts less oak per unit of volume, onto the wine.
Next, they taste a 2022 Pinot Noir with spectacular color. 2022 was a difficult vintage. The fruit came from the Sangiacomo family vineyard. Dan says the grower gets credit. When you pay premium prices for fruit, you also get the grower’s expertise and personal care.
Dan finds this wine faintly rustic, as opposed to the bright cherry and berry. It’s a different kind of Pinot Noir. Petaluma Gap always delivers because it has more than just cold climate. It is more subtle and has more character.
When Kevin has picked, he asks around to see who else has picked.
Sometimes he’s the first. Gary Farrell would often pick early too and made great wine.
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On June 9 at 6 pm, the Healdsburg Wine Library is opening the new Millie Howie Memorial Garden and Patio. It’s free to the public and tickets are available at the Healdsburg Wine Library events page.
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The last wine is the Syrah. They have 23 bottles left. 2022 Petaluma Gap Syrah from Keller Estate. The Keller estate had some extra Syrah and Viognier that they offered to him. “Co-fermentation time!” says Dan. They put it all together, 100% whole cluster, 9% Viognier. It spent the final 8 months in stainless steel. He created an entirely different label for it. It came alive after a year in bottle. Dan says that this one “identifies” Syrah, which is meaty in a fruit sense, it’s not gamey.
The Wind to Wine Festival is coming, October 17, 2026. Start planning now!